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Hair types: how to identify yours and adapt your hair care routine
Straight, wavy, curly, coily, or kinky: every hair type has its own needs. Discover the 1A-4C classification and the right natural hair care routine.
Hair Types: How to Identify Yours and Adapt Your Hair Care Routine
Your hair type is revealed by the natural shape of the strand, but also by its thickness, density, shine, lack of volume, and the overall condition of your scalp.
Hair Types: The Essentials at a Glance
Your hair type is revealed by the natural shape of your strand, without product, air-dried. The international classification ranges from 1A, very fine and straight, to 4C, tightly coiled. Each type corresponds to a distinct biological profile: sebum level, cuticle condition, porosity, and scalp microbiome sensitivity.
Straight Hair
Straight, without waves, flat cuticle. Main needs: lightness and sebum balance.
Wavy Hair
Wide S-shaped waves, semi-open cuticle. Main needs: light hydration and frizz control.
Curly Hair
Spiral curls, open cuticle. Main needs: deep hydration and definition.
Coily Hair
Very tight Z-shaped coils, very open cuticle. Main needs: water retention, strengthening, and microbiome support.
Read on to accurately identify your type, understand the nature of your hair, and build a routine that truly suits your hair texture.
The Hydrosol Shampoo
Hydrating shampoo · sulfate-free · organic hydrosols
- Cleanses without stripping the scalp
- Helps hair become soft, beautiful, and shiny
- Suitable for straight, wavy, curly, or thick hair
The Hair Type Classification: From 1A to 4C
The reference system used in cosmetology and dermatology divides the different hair types into four main categories, each subdivided into three subtypes, A, B, and C, depending on the diameter, density, and shape of the strand.
This hair type chart has become the foundation for most hair care professionals. It does not just describe a shape: it reveals the architecture of the fiber, the hair texture, and therefore specific needs.
| Type | Texture | Characteristics | Example Profile |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1A | Very fine and straight | Flat cuticle, abundant sebum, zero volume | Children's hair, very silky |
| 1B | Medium straight | Slightly denser, natural shine | The majority of European straight hair |
| 1C | Thick and straight | Heavy, resistant, may wave slightly at the nape | Dense Asian black hair |
| 2A | Lightly wavy | Wide and loose wave, poorly defined | Light waves by the end of the day |
| 2B | Pronounced waves | More pronounced S-shaped wave, possible frizz | Soft hair that expands in humidity |
| 2C | Strong waves | Very defined, almost curly, thick wave | Transition between wavy and curly |
| 3A | Wide curls | Loose curl, diameter of a thick marker | Shiny and bouncy curls |
| 3B | Tightly curly | Elastic curl, diameter of a pen | Dense curls, prone to dryness |
| 3C | Very tightly curly | Fine curl like a straw, very voluminous | Dense hair, noticeable shrinkage |
| 4A | S-shaped coils | Very tight coil, still defined | Defined afro, fine but fragile texture |
| 4B | Z-shaped coils | Angular curl, poorly defined, cottony | Maximum volume, high fragility |
| 4C | Ultra-tight coils | Almost no visible definition, intense shrinkage | Hair that appears very short but is actually very long |
How to Identify Your Hair Type
The question “how to know your hair type” comes up often, and the answer lies in one rule: observe your hair in its most natural state possible. No blow-drying, no diffuser, no styling product. This at-home diagnosis allows you to see the most reliable sign: the shape the strands naturally take.
Quick Diagnosis: 3 Simple Methods
Take a strand of hair that has fallen out, not one you have pulled. Lay it flat on a white surface to see if it remains straight, forms a wave, a curl, or a zigzag.
Wash with a neutral product, rinse, do not touch your hair, and let it air-dry. The shape visible after two hours reveals your texture.
Place a clean thread in a glass of water. If it floats, the cuticle is likely closed. If it sinks quickly, it is more open or damaged.
The Single Strand Method
Take a strand of hair that has fallen out, not one you have pulled. Lay it flat on a white surface.
- It remains perfectly straight: type 1.
- It forms one or two wide waves: type 2.
- It coils into a loose or tight spiral: type 3.
- It forms very tight zigzags or appears to have no defined shape: type 4.
This is the most reliable method for fine hair. For thick and dense hair, it can be misleading: an isolated strand behaves differently than an entire section.
The Air-Drying Method
Wash your hair with a neutral product, rinse thoroughly, do not touch your hair, and let it air-dry in a room without wind. Observe the shape achieved after two hours.
This is the most representative method for all hair types, including the thickest. It reveals the actual behavior of your fiber, without mechanical interference.
What Porosity Reveals About Your Type
Porosity is the ability of your cuticle to let water and active ingredients in, and then retain them. It complements the assessment of your hair type.
- The strand floats for a long time: low porosity, closed cuticle, typical of types 1 and 2.
- The strand sinks quickly: high porosity, open cuticle, typical of types 3 and 4, or damaged hair.
Porosity guides the choice of product textures: light and fluid for low porosity, richer and more protective for high porosity.
Type 1: Straight Hair, 1A, 1B, 1C
Straight hair has a naturally flat and well-aligned cuticle. This is its strength, but also its constraint. The sebum produced by the scalp glides without obstacle along the fiber, which explains why greasy roots appear quickly and why the lengths soon look dull.
Biological Needs
- Balanced sebum production without irritating the scalp.
- Absolute lightness on the lengths.
- Regular but non-stripping cleansing.
Common Mistakes
- Applying a rich mask to the entire length, which makes the hair flat and greasy as early as the next day.
- Using heavy oils as a finishing product.
- Washing too often with an aggressive shampoo, which stimulates even more sebum production.
To understand why greasy roots get out of control, our article on the causes of greasy hair details the mechanisms at play.
Adapted routine: the organic hydrosol shampoo, formulated with matricaria chamomilla hydrosol, gently cleanses without upsetting the scalp's flora. Pair it with a detoxifying hair scrub once a week to remove excess sebum and styling product residue.
Type 2: Wavy Hair, 2A, 2B, 2C
Wavy hair occupies an intermediate zone that is often misunderstood. Its cuticle is semi-open: it absorbs ambient humidity, which creates frizz, but does not always retain hydrating active ingredients well.
Soft 2A hair reacts to the slightest overload. 2C hair, on the other hand, can look curly in humid weather and wavy in dry weather. This is the most unstable hair type, and often the most frustrating to manage.
Biological Needs
- Light hydration that does not weigh it down.
- Cuticle smoothing to limit frizz.
- Wave definition without stiffness.
Common Mistakes
- Layering too many styling products, mousses, gels, or creams, which weigh down the wave.
- Using a shampoo that is too stripping, which weakens the cuticle and amplifies frizz.
- Neglecting a cold-water rinse, which closes the cuticle.
If you have greasy roots and ends that lean toward dryness, our guide on combination hair with greasy roots and dry ends is for you.
Adapted routine: the organic hydrosol shampoo for gentle cleansing, followed by the waterless night serum, whose Damask rose hydrosol provides light hydration and cationic hyaluronic acid smooths the cuticle without weighing down the wave.
Type 3: Curly Hair, 3A, 3B, 3C
Curly hair has a naturally open cuticle. The direct consequence: water enters easily, but leaves just as quickly. This is the insensible water loss of the hair fiber, and it is the main source of dryness in curls.
The helical shape of curly hair also creates points of fragility at every curve. Mechanical handling, towels, brushes, dry combs, or overly aggressive styling worsens these micro-breakages.
Biological Needs
- Deep and lasting hydration.
- Occlusion to retain water in the fiber.
- Curl definition without stiffness.
- Protection against mechanical breakage.
Common Mistakes
- Drying with a towel by rubbing, which destroys definition and breaks the curls.
- Using a sulfate shampoo that strips the natural lipids from the cuticle.
- Skipping the mask step thinking you are saving time.
To learn more about hydrating the fiber, our article on hydrating dry hair provides concrete keys.
Adapted routine: the organic hydrosol shampoo for gentle cleansing, the plant-based keratin mask, whose ceramides close the cuticle and improve water retention, then the Waterless Night Serum as a finishing product to seal in the hydration.
The Hydrosol Mask
Nourishing mask · ceramides · hyaluronic acid
- Helps nourish dry, brittle, or damaged hair
- Adds shine, suppleness, and comfort to the lengths
- Ideal for detangling and maintaining curly hair
Type 4: Coily Hair, 4A, 4B, 4C
Coily hair is the most complex to understand and the most underserved by conventional products. Its cuticle is very open, its porosity is at its maximum, and its zigzag shape creates a multitude of points of fragility on every centimeter of fiber.
The sebum produced by the scalp hardly travels down the hair shaft. The result: the lengths are structurally deprived of natural lipid protection. Added to this is the particular vulnerability of the scalp microbiome, often disrupted by years of chemical products, relaxers, aggressive dyes, or excessive handling.
Biological Needs
- Maximum water retention, LOC or LCO method.
- Fiber strengthening to limit breakage.
- Reduction of mechanical handling.
- Rebalancing the scalp microbiome.
Common Mistakes
- Handling dry hair, when you should work on damp hair or with a slippery product.
- Neglecting occlusive agents, butters, or thick plant oils, which seal in the hydration.
- Washing too frequently with a stripping shampoo.
- Ignoring scalp health in favor of only the lengths.
Adapted routine: start with the Exfoliating Scrub to rebalance the microbiome and oxygenate the scalp. Follow with the Hydrosol Mask to close the cuticle and strengthen the fiber. Finish with the Night Serum, whose probiotic active ingredients help rebalance the scalp flora.
Summary table: hair type, need, and routine
| Type | Texture | Main need | Adapted MDA hydrosol | Key products |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 - Straight | Straight | Sebum balance, lightness | Matricaria chamomilla | ShampooScrub |
| 2 - Wavy | S-shaped waves | Light hydration, frizz control | Damask rose | ShampooNight Serum |
| 3 - Curly | Spirals | Deep hydration, retention | Orange blossom | MaskNight Serum |
| 4 - Coily | Tight zigzags | Water retention, microbiome | Orange blossom and probiotics | ScrubMaskNight Serum |
For types 3 and 4, our curly and coily hair routine combines treatments in a protocol designed for curls and coils.
Which Madame d’Alexis products should you choose based on your hair type?
Now that you have identified your hair type, choosing the right treatment becomes much simpler. The goal is not to use an entire range at random, but to build a consistent hair care routine based on texture, density, sebum levels, fiber thickness, and scalp sensitivity.
| Hair type | Main need | Recommended Madame d’Alexis products | Why this routine? |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1Straight, fine, or oily hair | Lightness, sebum balance, volume, and shine without a flat effect. | The Shampoo gently cleanses, hydrates, and respects the microbiome. The Scrub helps purify the scalp, remove styling residue, and provide more lightness from the roots. | |
| 2Wavy hair | Light hydration, frizz control, suppleness, and natural definition. | The Shampoo prepares the fiber without weighing it down. The Day Serum tames frizz and adds shine. The Night Serum supports scalp hydration and root comfort. | |
| 3Curly or coily hair | Deep hydration, definition, detangling, suppleness, and breakage protection. | The Mask nourishes and repairs the fiber, while the Day Serum seals in hydration, limits frizz, makes styling easier, and protects the lengths daily. | |
| 4Coily or highly textured hair | Water retention, fiber strengthening, microbiome, and density. | The Scrub purifies the scalp, the Mask intensely nourishes, and the Night Serum works on density, growth, anchoring, and microbiome balance. |
A proper diagnosis helps avoid common mistakes: over-nourishing fine hair, under-hydrating curly hair, or neglecting the scalp in a routine for coily, sensitive, or volume-deficient hair.
What your hair type says about your microbiome
This is the angle that conventional cosmetology still too often ignores. Hair type indirectly influences the scalp environment, and therefore the balance of its microbiome.
Research published on PubMed shows that scalp sebum levels are one of the main factors shaping the local microbial composition. An oily scalp, typical of types 1 and 2, promotes the proliferation of lipophilic bacteria such as Cutibacterium and yeasts such as Malassezia. An excess of these microorganisms can lead to dandruff, itching, or low-grade chronic inflammation that weakens the follicle.
Conversely, types 3 and 4 often have a drier scalp with less sebum, which can promote other microbial imbalances, especially when combined with years of chemical products or aggressive handling techniques.
- Types 1 and 2: priority is regular but gentle cleansing, without stripping. Hydrosols to balance sebum are valuable allies for regulating without harming the flora.
- Types 3 and 4: scalp exfoliation is not a luxury, it is a functional step. It removes residue that suffocates the follicles and creates an environment favorable to a balanced microbiome.
Choosing a sulfate-free shampoo for oily hair is also a microbiome decision: sulfates strip not only sebum, but also the scalp's natural protective biofilm.
FAQ: Frequently asked questions about hair types
What are the hair types?
Hair types are generally classified into four families: straight hair, wavy hair, curly hair, and coily hair. Type 1 hair corresponds to straight hair, often shiny but sometimes lacking volume. Type 2 forms waves, type 3 curls, and type 4 very tight coils.
This classification helps to understand hair texture, thickness, density, hair nature, and how it styles. It also helps to better differentiate fine hair, oily hair, normal hair, dry hair, or thick hair, as each hairstyle presents a visible characteristic that guides the best care advice.
How to identify your hair type?
To identify your type and know your hair type without error, you must observe the nature of your hair after a gentle wash, without blow-drying, without styling balm, and without styling product. Let it air dry, then see if the strand stays straight, forms a wave, a curl, or a zigzag.
Hair texture can also be read in the overall appearance: straight hair, hair with curls, normal hair, dry hair, oily hair, lack of volume, brittle ends, visible density, or damaged fiber. A good home diagnosis should also take into account scalp health, the presence of dandruff, hair loss, or the ease of detangling and styling the hair day to day.
What care for each hair type?
The care advice depends on the nature of your hair. Straight hair requires lightness, fine hair needs volume without overload, oily hair appreciates an occasional scrub, normal hair seeks balance, and curly or coily hair needs a more nourishing hair mask.
For the care of your hair, build a simple hair care routine: suitable shampoo, a hydrating product if the fiber lacks water, a nourishing mask for long, thick, or damaged hair, then a leave-in treatment if styling becomes difficult. Coily and curly hair require more attention to detangling, the sun, breakage, and hair loss.
How to care for dry hair?
Dry hair needs hydration, nourishment, and protection. A hydrating product, a nourishing mask, a light oil, or an occasional oil treatment can help nourish the fiber and restore soft, beautiful, and shiny hair.
The cause can come from a lack of sebum, sun exposure, blonde coloring, or an overly aggressive routine. The right reflex is to limit heat, detangle gently, choose a suitable cosmetic range, and maintain the lengths regularly.
What is the classification of hair?
The best-known hair classification is that of Andre Walker. It distinguishes straight hair of type 1, wavy hair of type 2, curly hair of type 3, and coily hair of type 4. Each hair type is then divided into A, B, and C according to the shape, thickness, density, and curl characteristic.
This classification corresponds to hair according to its natural shape, but it must be crossed with the nature of the hair: normal hair, dry hair, oily hair, fine or thick hair texture, sensitive fiber, damaged hair, hair loss, or lack of shine.
How to know if my hair is normal?
Normal hair presents a good balance: it does not get oily too quickly, is not too dry, remains easy to style, soft to the touch, and visibly shiny. Its appearance is even, the strand retains a beautiful suppleness, and the scalp shows no sign of discomfort.
Normal hair can be fine, thick, blonde, straight, or curly. The main sign remains balance: little dandruff, little breakage, stable shine, decent hair health, and easy styling between washes.
Is there a better hair type than another?
No, there is no better hair type. Each texture presents advantages and constraints. Straight hair reflects light easily, curly hair naturally forms volume, coily hair offers strong visual density, and normal hair often gives an impression of balance.
The reason why a person may find their hair difficult often comes from an unsuitable routine, not the type itself. The right choice is to select the treatment that corresponds to the hair, its current state, and its real need.
Can you have several hair types on the same head?
Yes, many women and men have several textures on the same head of hair. The nape can be more wavy, the temples straighter, the top thicker or more brittle. Several strands can also form curls while others remain almost straight.
In this case, the most fragile area must be treated with the most attention. This is also the reason why a personalized diagnosis, in the salon, at home, or via a specialized blog, can help build a more solid routine.
What is the difference between hair type and hair nature?
Hair type describes the shape: straight, wavy, curly, or coily. Hair nature describes the state of the fiber: normal, dry, oily, sensitive, colored, brittle, or losing density.
You can therefore have type 1 hair that is oily, or curly hair that is very dry. Both readings are complementary to choose a routine, a shampoo, a hair mask, a scrub, or a finishing treatment.
How to choose your products online according to your hair type?
Before an online order, first look at your texture, your density, your shine level, and visible signs: dry ends, lack of volume, dandruff, hair loss, or sensitive scalp. A serious product page should help you understand who the treatment is intended for.
On a beauty store, also check the terms of sale, the delivery policy, loyalty benefits, the newsletter, and possible offers such as free delivery or free shipping. This does not replace the diagnosis, but facilitates the choice of a suitable range.
Do colored or bleached hair change type?
They do not change type in the strict sense, because the shape of the follicle remains the same. But coloring, especially on lightened blonde, can change porosity and make the fiber drier, more brittle, and more sensitive.
After coloring, hair can therefore behave like a more fragile texture. It often requires a nourishing mask, a hydrating product, and a more protective routine.
How to adapt your routine if you do not yet know your type?
Start with the natural drying test described above. In the meantime, bet on a simple base: gentle shampoo or very respectful solid shampoo, fluid hydrating treatment, no heavy styling product, and observation after two or three washes.
Then, adjust gradually. If the hair gets oily quickly, lighten it. If it becomes brittle, nourish it. If it lacks volume, avoid overly rich textures. If curls form but fall apart, add a defining treatment.
Is curly hair necessarily dry?
Not always, but it is more exposed to it. Hair with curls prevents sebum from easily going down the fiber. The tighter the curl, the drier the lengths can become.
A hair mask, a hydrating treatment, and special attention to detangling allow you to regain better suppleness, beautiful shine, and a fiber that is easier to style.
Useful sources
- Walker, A.: Andre Walker Hair Typing System, hair classification reference used in professional cosmetology.
- Saxena R. et al.: “Longitudinal study of the scalp microbiome suggests coconut oil to enrich healthy scalp commensals”, Scientific Reports, 2021.
- Grimshaw S. et al.: “A healthy scalp microbiome”, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2022.
- Aroma-Zone: organic matricaria chamomilla hydrosol technical sheet.
- Typology: German chamomile hydrosol identity sheet.
